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RS100 Centerboard Uphaul and Downhaul Control

30/04/2011 5 comments

Hi Guys,

I have been racing mainly against contenders here in Canberra and I noticed they had a similar centreboard set up as we do.  Also some gun sailors here have been suggesting I rake the centreboard back in bigger winds to help with the control of the RS.  I tried that using the old system and as I was pulling the board up I accidentally went too far and it retracted and I went over, again!

Lastly the current friction system does not hold the board firmly down and it kept swinging back on its own.  This was particularly troubling when I was trying to right the boat.  My solution at the time, which worked really well was to glue some 3mm foam pads to the inside of the centreboard.  I posted this on pimps and bimbles a few months ago.

Anyway ultimately I wasnt happy with this solution and as an obsessive compulsive personality I obsessed over it for a few months.  The challenge was to use all of the existing fittings and also not having to drill any holes.

Here is my solution and it is pretty simple to do.

View of deck eyes under mainsheet turret.

You can use the existing deck eyes but during the course of experimentation with shockchord tension I wore serious grooves into them.  I replaced them with Ronstan PNP122 deck eyes with stainless steel liners.They have the same fixing hole centres as the existing deck eyes.  I also tried pulleys on saddles but there wasnt much difference in resistance and they sometimes jambed in awkward positions.
 

View of deck 'Ronstan - PNP122'

 This is a better view of the deck eyes under the  mainsheet turret.

 

Top of centerboard

You can see the blue downhaul rope running through the centerboard pulley back to the deck eyes.  Also shown is the 9mm shockchord running through the existing hole in the centreboard.
The shockchord is tied off to one of the existing saddles that the other take up shockchords are connected to.  There saddles on both sides of the bow, I used the portside one as it was further away from the running gear of the spinnaker pole.
Make sure you don’t put too much tension on the shockchord in the up position as it will be very hard to pull down.  Basically my shockchord is in a slack position when the board is fully up.
 
 I still push the board down past the centreboard gaskets manually to prevent unnecessary stress on the deck eyes.  As with the original set up when the board is in the up position the angles of the line are not optimal for pulling the centreboard down.  I just push down on the trailing edge of the board to get it past the resistance of the centreboard case gasket.

Existing uphaul pulleys under deck

The uphaul line from the deck eyes through to the existing uphaul pulleys under the carbon foredeck.
 

Old hiking straps now become centerboard centerboard downhaul cleats

The centreboard downhaul rope runs from the old uphaul pulleys under th deck back to the old hiking strap cleats.  Make sure the rope runs under everything as this way it seems to line up perfectly.
I have spliced the new centreboard downhaul rope into a continuous loop.  I have this new downhaul rope running through one of the existing pulleys connected to shockchord that was used on the old centreboard downhaul ropes to take up the slack.
 
So far I have found this the system to work extremely well giving positive control over the location of the centreboard.
I have tied the hiking straps with thin chord to the old fixing points at a level and position I like.  I never really played with this adjustment much in the past anyway.
 
That’s it for me fo now. Now onto my next obsession, I have till June to my next regatta(Brass Monkey).
Regards Freddo

 

Categories: pimps and bimbles

Rudder Uphaul Setup


Hi RSabout mates,

I have been frustrated by the number of times my rudder has slipped and dropped onto the concrete ramp or hasn’t come up properly when getting back to the shore.  This has resulted in a damaged rudder blade tip.

So I did something about it.  Here is my solution, it’s not original, I ripped it off the local spirals and lasers but it works.

View of Rudder Box and blade.

You can see the 7mm hole I drilled through the rudder blade to take the shockchord.  I then put a plastic liner(RF2338) into the end of the tiller to protect the running shockchord.

View of the Tiller end

 The end of the tiller has a black bauble connected to the 7mm shockchord.

View of black bauble, shockchord and plastic tiller liner (RF2338)

 If the rudder does not want to come up initially as the first stage has the least mechanical advantage then a yank on the bauble helps it up.

As a rule when I am leaving the shore I tighten up the rudder pivot bolt so there is no slop when racing.  I then loosen it right off as I am coming back to shore when the rudder stiffness does not matter as much.

I hope this is of some help to other people with similar obsessive compulsive nature.

Regards Freddo

Categories: pimps and bimbles

Pimping It Up From Down Under – Spinnaker Halyard Take Up Line

15/01/2011 1 comment

Hi Guys,

Like Joe 50 I have made the retrieval line so It can be easily disconnected.  I have added a plastic hook that hooks onto the retrieval line block saddle.  It has only come off once but it doesn’t seem to be a regular problem.

At the other end I have replaced the take up pulley connected to the shock cord with the smallest harken swivel pulley.  It’s certainly help to reduce twisting of the line significantly.  I still get half a twist from the memory in the line.  I have disconnected the retrieval line and ran it out straight to minimise the twist but I can seem to get the last half out.  Any comments or suggestions?

Regards Freddo

Pimping It Up From Down Under – Righting Line, Halyard Knots and Boom End

15/01/2011 6 comments

Hi RS100 sailors,

Here is a photo of the righting lines under the wing with PVC tube added to prevent it from cutting into my hands. I know I am soft you don’t have to tell me.

Here is a photo of the spinnaker halyard bauble way of securing lines.  I use it on the main and spinnaker halyards as well as the spinnaker tack line.  Its easier to undo than the recommended knot on knot system.  Down under most of the dinghys like 29ers, NS14 & B14s have done away with shackles and use this system of secure lines.

 

This is a photo of my version of boom end protector. 

This protects the boat from scratches caused by the boom end when the sail is down.

Its made up of a half round black rubber bumper I bought at Clark Rubber.  I drilled 3 small holes in the boom end and used small zip-ties to fix it in place.

If you can’t find the same half round bumper profile you could use PVC tube instead.

 Regards Freddo

Pimping It Up From Down Under – Non-Skid Inside The Gunwales

15/01/2011 1 comment

Hi Guys,

I will try to make this one shorter.

I sail most of the time on an inland man-made lake called Lake Burley Griffin.  Its more of a puddle than a proper lake.

The result is that it is surrounded by buildings, structures and mole hill they call Black Mountain. The winds are very flukey and on a good day may range in speed 0-30 knots.  You can be sailing on glass and next second you have a wind bullet of 15 kots.

For light conditions I am as forward as possible with my legs hanging over the leeward gunwale (I am 6’3″ tall).  When a gust hits I need to get onto the wing quickly.  The problem is that the leeward gunwale is very shiny and polished so I end up slipping and flapping around like a stranded fish.

The solution was put non-skid on the inside of these gunwales. Being the stylish boat that the RS100 I didn’t any ordinary non-skid so created some custom ones out of 3mm EVA grey foam.

The RS100 logo I printed and enlarged to the size I wanted on my copier.  I then used it as a template to cut the foam using an ‘Exacto’ knife (model making knife).

The footprints I sketched out by hand and cut out by hand.

I then used heat and water resistant contact glue to glue onto the inside gunwales.  As always with contact glue you have to apply to both surfaces and let tack dry a bit then fix into position. 

Acetone was then used to clean off the glue that was around the edges and on the finished side of the foam.  It’s fiddly and takes time but it is

worth the result.

I think it looks great as well as having a practical application.  

Regards Freddo

Categories: pimps and bimbles

Pimping It Up From Down Under – Centreboard Downhaul

15/01/2011 3 comments

Hi Guys,

I Have always been impressed how well the RS100 has been thought out and built.  As with anything there is always some custom modification to personalise the machine.

Here are few of my pimps that solve a number personal bugs.

 The first one is the centreboard friction system. I have always had problems with the centreboard pivoting backwards in stronger breezes.

Although this is not too bad as sometimes you want to have the board raked backwards in bigger breezes, I feel I want to control when and how much rake I want.  Call me a control freak but it’s just the way I am ;-).

I tried tightening the screws on the centreboard PVC screws but I could not get enough purchase and could not squash the tube enough to creat sufficient friction.  I tried the modification from Joe50 and again there was not enough friction to hold the board down, it also added another  level of complication.

Here is my solution and it works a treat. 

I glued a 30-40mm diameter 3mm thick EVA foam patch on both sides of the centreboard case.  I used a water and heat-resistant contact adhesive. 

Notice in the photo that I put it forward of the board so it only adds friction once you are close to the down position.  Also note that only the small part of it comes to the edge, most of it is inside the case.  The bottom edge of the case is very tight with the centreboard and opens up a few millimetres once inside. By glueing most of the foam inside the case it tapers the entry of the centreboard into the lock down position.  It provides just the right amount of  friction so it’s not too difficult to get it up again.

It’s very simple but works.  I like simple 🙂

BTW See the silver tape over the front edge of the centreboard gaskets, it’s there to stop them from being ripped off.

Regards Freddo

Categories: pimps and bimbles

12 Crimble Bimbles – 12. Frankenstein nut guard

11/12/2010 Leave a comment

Last but not least – in fact I’m quite proud of this one. Put lazy-kite-sheet-wrapped-round-nut misery behind you for ever!

Distract your significant other and slip a white plastic coated coathanger under your jacket before leaving the house. Bend it as shown in the picture and trim the ends with good pliers. Tape around the boom then tape over each nut in two places going from flat surface to flat suface while pinning the wire against the nut. Then circle the nut with tape which will pin the two previous pieces and hold it all nicely together.

No doubt a bit of a pain if you very regularly de-rig your mast.

Categories: pimps and bimbles